For study purposes
Jun. 12th, 2010 04:03 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
branchandrootIt's easy enough for a westerner looking around at kimono to find sites and pictures of (upper class) kimono styles and (upper class) kimono fabrics and accounts of (upper class) kimono layers and how to tie an (upper class) obi. All of these center around the "formal" kimono, which restricts movement, eating, and possible activities in a way no sane person would accept day-to-day without some huge compensation. (I did mention the "upper class" thing, yes?)
What's harder is finding anything at all about what normal people wore, when the kimono was an actual item of clothing instead of a photo-op. So have some resources I've dug up, and a few keywords with which to search further.
Kimonoboy, a web store specializing in workers' clothing (aka "folk textiles", a framing I could really do without).
Database of Meiji photography set to the "search by keyword or category" page. Be cautious of the number of "rustic" photos which are actually posed (look for backdrops, makeup, very long sleeves, and elaborate hair).
Terms to search with:
Hippari. Hip-length wrapped top with straight or slightly tapered sleeves.
Mompe/monpei/try alternate spellings until you get what you want. Tapered pants, mid-calf to ankle length, sometimes have ties at the bottom. Basic construction is the same as hakama but they're far narrower with shorter ties.
Kosode. Searching this one is going to get you a lot of "traditional" hits, so try it in concert with one of the other terms. This is what most people think of as a kimono, anywhere from hip to ankle length, with short hanging sleeves. If it's made out of blue, green or brown cotton or hemp, you're looking at the right kind.
Maekake. Apron, very basic, quite common. You can see a few full length ones in the photos, but shorter ones are most common.
Kyahan. Leg wraps with ties at knee and ankle. You'll get a lot of hits from martial arts supply sites, in a rather different form.
Sodenashi. Sleeveless wrapped top. You can sometimes see "formal" versions of this worn loose or tied just in front, but if you see someone actually working in one it's generally going to be belted.
What's harder is finding anything at all about what normal people wore, when the kimono was an actual item of clothing instead of a photo-op. So have some resources I've dug up, and a few keywords with which to search further.
Kimonoboy, a web store specializing in workers' clothing (aka "folk textiles", a framing I could really do without).
Database of Meiji photography set to the "search by keyword or category" page. Be cautious of the number of "rustic" photos which are actually posed (look for backdrops, makeup, very long sleeves, and elaborate hair).
Terms to search with:
Hippari. Hip-length wrapped top with straight or slightly tapered sleeves.
Mompe/monpei/try alternate spellings until you get what you want. Tapered pants, mid-calf to ankle length, sometimes have ties at the bottom. Basic construction is the same as hakama but they're far narrower with shorter ties.
Kosode. Searching this one is going to get you a lot of "traditional" hits, so try it in concert with one of the other terms. This is what most people think of as a kimono, anywhere from hip to ankle length, with short hanging sleeves. If it's made out of blue, green or brown cotton or hemp, you're looking at the right kind.
Maekake. Apron, very basic, quite common. You can see a few full length ones in the photos, but shorter ones are most common.
Kyahan. Leg wraps with ties at knee and ankle. You'll get a lot of hits from martial arts supply sites, in a rather different form.
Sodenashi. Sleeveless wrapped top. You can sometimes see "formal" versions of this worn loose or tied just in front, but if you see someone actually working in one it's generally going to be belted.
no subject
Date: 2010-06-13 04:48 pm (UTC)